![]() ![]() Menswear had long used wool as a staple fabric. The tailor was particularly adept at working woolen fabrics, which he shaped and sculpted using steam and heavy irons. The nineteenth-century tailor added trousers, fancy waistcoats, and sporting clothing of all sorts to his repertoire. Women largely made relatively unshaped undergarments and shirts for men, women, and children. Tailors were the structural engineers for women's fashions and made whalebone stays or corsets until the nineteenth century. Luxury garments were often lined with satins or furs to keep their wearers warm. ![]() ![]() Imperfect or asymmetrical body shapes could be evened out with wool or cotton padding. They gave shape to them by using coarse, stiff linen and canvas for interlining, horsehair cloth and even cardboard stiffened with whalebone for structural elements. In the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries, tailors were responsible for making a variety of outer garments including capes, cloaks, coats, doublets, and breeches. Tailoring has traditionally been and remains a hierarchical and male-dominated trade, though some women tailoresses have learned the trade. In 1588, various guilds for French tailors were united as the powerful Maitres Tailleurs d'Habits. In France, the tailors of Paris ( Tailleurs de Robes) received a charter in 1293, but there were separate guilds for Linen Armorers and Hose-Makers. They became a Company in 1466 and were incorporated into the company of Merchant Taylors in 1503. In London, the Guild of Taylors and Linen Armorers were granted arms in 1299. In 1100 Henry I confirmed the royal rights and privileges to the Taylors of Oxford. Men's clothing at the time consisted of a loosely fitted tunic and hose. Tailoring had its beginnings in the trade of linen armorers, who skillfully fitted men with padded linen undergarments to protect their bodies against the chafing of chain mail and later plate armor. Bespoke tailoring signals that these items are already "spoken for" rather than made on speculation.Īs a craft, tailoring dates back to the early Middle Ages, when tailors' guilds were established in major European towns. The term bespoke, or custom, tailoring describes garments made to measure for a specific client. In Latin, the word for tailor was sartor, meaning patcher or mender, hence the English "sartorial," or relating to the tailor, tailoring, or tailored clothing. ![]() The word tailor comes from the French tailler, to cut, and appears in the English language during the fourteenth century. Tailoring is the art of designing, cutting, fitting, and finishing clothes. ![]()
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